xochil.com – Chicago Pattern Maker

Press Clippings: Fashionable Activewear

I was recently interviewed as part of an article about fitness apparel design. I have been working in a lot in this area of fashion recently, and I was happy to share a few of my experiences with Art Institutes InSite. This site is part of the Art Institutes, where I earned my degree in fashion design, and focuses on the stories of alumni in each industry represented in their program offerings.

Fitness apparel is an interesting segment of fashion. I find that it is continuing to evolve and takes inspiration from mainstream trends, but it is also extremely innovative. Function and performance are the most important elements of activewear, and can be different and special to the customer and the particular sport they are wearing it for. That doesn’t mean that style and trends go out the door. It’s an interesting combination of elements.

Please check out the full article below at the Art Insitutes InSite website:

http://insite.artinstitutes.edu/getting-off-the-block-in-fashionable-activewear-design-25258.aspx

Recent Press Clippings

It’s always great to know that people are talking about you. Here are some recent “press clippings” that mention me that I would like to share with you.

Today’s Chicago Woman Magazine Blog

http://www.tcwmag.com/blog/last-minute-beauty-and-style-secrets

Kali Evans-Raoul of The Image Studios talks about her secrets to great style.  Restyling items from your existing wardrobe is a great style secret, and I would be happy to help you to transform your dresses, evening wear, outer wear, vintage items and furs.

The Illinois Institute of Art – Chicago: Spring 2010 Alumni Newsletter

http://aichicagocareerservices.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/newsletter.pdf

On Page 7, a brief bio describing my work since graduation.

Fit Samples – Muslin or Sample Fabric?

You have your first pattern ready and the next step is to test the pattern and fit on your fit model. Often referred to as a muslin sample, your fit sample should actually be made up in a sample fabric that is the same weight, weave and fiber content as your actual garment, rather than cotton muslin.

Why use “real” fabric?
Cotton muslin bears resemblance to very few real garments. For items that are made up in a lightweight woven (cotton or otherwise), using muslin is just fine. It’s cheap, easy to make up and easy to mark on during a fitting. Muslin is also a great tool to use during the pattern making process, for styles that need to be draped, or even just to do a quick test for your pattern.

To get a good idea on how a garment will hang and drape on the body, however, using your actual fabric or similar sample fabric will be much more accurate. A chiffon drapes differently than a crepe-back satin or charmeuse. A 10oz. denim fits differently from a 8oz. A cotton twill will differ from a wool suiting. And on, and on.

In the case of using a stretch fabric, something with 2% spandex will fit much differently than something with 4% spandex. You cannot use the same pattern for a garment of the same style with these different fabrics. For the same reason, muslin fabric has no stretch, and so a pattern made for stretch would end up being too small if made up in a non-stretch material.

A knit garment, such as a jersey dress, could never be made out of muslin either, it would not fit or drape anywhere near what the jersey would actually do. Jersey is knit and muslin is woven fabric.

Another simple reason to use real fabric: It just looks better. You are more likely to be critical of a real fabric sample than a muslin because it’s harder for most people to visualize the end product, and the excuse “this will look and/or fit better in the real fabric” will be tossed out often. Without testing it first, you might miss that the back thigh of a pant leg is laying on the body funny or that the sweep of a dress is too big or small.

It saves you time, money, and a headache to get your fit sample right before making up your production sample. Keep in mind that is is not uncommon to do multiple fit samples before the production sample is made. This can depend on how fitted the style is or how complicated the design, and also how much information was supplied to your pattern maker beforehand. When producing similar styles, do a fit sample in one style first, before the patterns for all of the styles are made, so that those changes can be applied to the other patterns.

Contact Xochil for questions about your patterns, fit samples, or production samples.

AIBI Fabric and Trim Show

This 2-day event put together by AIBI is one that all Chicago area designers need to check out for good resources for fabrics, trims, and more!

Xochil’s favorite fashion resource, Jay Arbetman, will have a booth in the show. She will be hanging out at the show during portions of both days to meet designers and answer any questions.

Jay is a great resource for all types of fabrics, linings, zippers, buttons and more. And unbelieveable pricing.

Fabric and Trim Show

May 13th and 14th – 9am – 4pm

Chicago Merchandise Mart

www.misterzipper.com

Technical Illustration vs. Fashion Croquis

Many fashion designers have beautiful fashion croquis to show their designs, aesthetic, and render fabrications. While they look nice, and require a great amount of both time and artistic talent, a technical illustration is needed to communicate your design to your pattern maker and sewing contractor.

A technical drawing differs from a fashion croqui in that it shows a flat rendering of your design, and shows your pattern maker the relationships and proportions between style lines, placement of buttons and zippers, and even stitch types such as top stitching or flat felled seams. Often special seams will be annotated on the drawing.

Most technical drawings are created on the computer, using a program such as Adobe Illustrator. If you feel comfortable, you (the designer) can do this yourself, or you can hire an illustrator. Most companies will charge per illustration, rather than by the hour.

A good technical illustration, also called a “flat”, will be a scale drawing of your design, both front and back view, and sometimes include detailed drawings of a particular piece, such as a unique pocket design or embroidery. Solid lines show seams, dotted or dashed lines show stitching. Flats are not usually colored in, especially when being used to show the design to your pattern maker, however some designers use flats in their line sheets to show buyers, and in this case it would be appropriate to show colors and prints if applicable. Flats are also utilized, and expanded upon in more detail in your specification package.

If your garment contains any unusual design features or requires specific sewing techniques, it is wise to also have illustrations made up to show these in detail. Along with a sewn sample, it will ensure that your sewing contractor understands what you expect your garment to look like. A side note, some sewing contractors will sew your first samples, others prefer that you or a sample maker do.

Once you have your illustration, front and back, you will use this on your patten card, construction notes, measurement chart (for grading), and often on your company’s line sheets.

For questions or more information on technical illustrations for your company, please email Xochil.

Borris Powell Fashion Show

I had the pleasure of working with Chicago designer Borris Powell on patterns for dresses for his upcoming show, The Rise of an Empress. View his beautiful evening wear designs at his upcoming fashion show, Friday March 19th. For tickets and more information, please visit www.borrispowell.com. An added bonus to those who attend: partial proceeds will be donated to the Haiti Relief Foundation.

Spring 2010 Trend Review

The Image Studios’ Wardrobe Styling Team
invites you to Preview Spring 2010 Fashion Trends

Join us for champagne, hors d’oeuvres,

and a preview of ETCetera’s Spring 2010 Collection!

Tuesday, February 9th
6:00 pm to 8:00 pm
The Image Studios
22 North Morgan Street

RSVP: click here

Fabric and Trim Show

An event all Chicago area designers need to check out for good resources for fabrics, trims, and more! Xochil will be sharing a booth with fabric, trim and zipper rep extroidinare, Jay Arbetman, on Thursday October 22nd. She will be open to discuss pattern making and sample sewing, or to answer questions concerning your designs. Jay is a great resource for all types of fabrics, linings, zippers, buttons and more. And unbelieveable pricing.

Fabric and Trim Show

October 22nd and 23rd – 9am – 4pm

Chicago Apparel Center

www.misterzipper.com

Tailoring Sessions at The Image Studios

Tuesday evenings from 6:30 pm to 8:00 pm, and Friday mornings 8:00 am to 9:30 am, get expert tailoring services and wardrobe advice from Xochil at The Image Studios. Please call to schedule an appointment.

The Image Studios – Chicago
22 North Morgan Street, Suite 215
Chicago IL 60607
312-421-4660

Designs to be Featured at Ai Chicago Alumni Gallery Show

Xochil’s designs to be featured at Ai Chicago Alumni Gallery Show. The show will be held October 13 – November 11, at The Illinois Institute of Art – Chicago. Also, there will be a gallery reception Thursday, October 22nd from 5:00pm to 8:00pm where you can meet the designers in the show. The show will feature alumni from all majors from fashion to web design and visual communications.